Blow Wind Blow and go garden go! Wind always creates problems in the garden but in March in the South the problem becomes acute. All gardeners know of the damage that results from plants whipping back and forth, being bruised or crushed against each other, the cutting action of the fine soil, and the silting action of the blowing dust. All these are bad. enough, but the real damage comes from the drying action of the winds the dehydration of plant tissues.
In this area there has been more, moisture during the last year than for, any previous season. For this reason many gardeners will neglect to supply needed moisture to the top soil, the layer in which feeder roots of plants are present. Many gardeners rely on winter mulches to prevent excessive drying of the top soil, and rightly so! But in at least half of our area even the mulch material is blown away, therefore surface watering becomes absolutely necessary.
The easiest method to water the garden at any time is by a permanent sprinkler system. More and more of these are being installed each year by gardeners.
Two thorough soakings given the garden during March at two week intervals should prevent dehydration damage. Root activity has already begun in the soil since the soil temperatures have reached 62 and stabilized, so water is vitally important now. Unless moisture is available when the plant needs it for proper development, the quantity and quality of the plant will suffer.
Summer flowering bulbs or tubers such as dahlias, cannas, caladiums, and tuberoses should be started now. These bulbs are usually stored during the winter through our area although in some parts they may have been left in the ground. If so, these should be lifted, divided and replanted now. In the case of the dahlia make sure that each tuber has a section of the old stem attached.
Unless this is present there cannot be any growth. For cannas and greenhouse bulbs, take them out of storage and cut the tubers into four-eye divisions. For early flowers from these, A pre-grow them in flats of sand to establish the growing points. When one leaf has reached six inches in length, plant the cannas outside the greenhouse in the permanent location. Many gardeners plant cannas just for the foliage. It is excellent for arrangements. Fancy-leaf caladiums may be sprouted by placing the growing point downward in a flat of wet moss for ten days.
After sprouting they may be potted in containers and replanted outside after they have become established. For sheer summer beauty try a planting of all white caladiums in front of Burford holly. This combination really looks cool on hot summer days. The crinums are a fascinating group of summer bulbs that should be given more place in our garden.
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